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(1) The upper part of the active BEACH above the normal reach of the tides (high water), but affected by large waves occurring during a high.
(2) (SMP) The accretion or erosion zone, located landward of ordinary high tide, which is normally wetted only by storm tides.
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(1) The seaward return of the water following the uprush of the waves. Also called backrush or run down.
(2) Water of waves thrown back by an obstruction such as a ship, BREAKWATER, CLIFF, etc.
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Low amplitude ripple marks formed on fine sand beaches by the BACKWASH of the waves.
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The rising ground bordering a lake, river or sea.
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An offshore ridge or mound of sand, GRAVEL, or other unconsolidated material which is submerged (at least at high tide), especially at the mouth of a river or ESTUARY, or lying parallel to, and a short distance from, the BEACH.
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A BAR essentially parallel to the shore, which has been built up so that its crest rises above the normal high water level. Also called BARRIER ISLAND and OFFSHORE BARRIER.
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A detached portion of a BARRIER BEACH between two inlets.
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Similar to a BARRIER ISLAND, only connected to the mainland.
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A large submarine DEPRESSION of a generally circular, elliptical or oval shape.
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The measurement of DEPTHS of water in oceans, seas and lakes; also the information derived from such measurements.
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A recess or INLET in the shore of a sea or lake between two capes or headlands, not as large as a GULF but larger than a COVE. See also BIGHT, EMBAYMENT.
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A BAR extending partly or entirely across the mouth of a bay.
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(1) A deposit of non-cohesive material (e.g. sand, GRAVEL) situated on the interface between dry land and the sea (or other large expanse of water) and actively "worked" by present-day hydrodynamics processes (i.e. waves, tides and CURRENTS) and sometimes by winds.
(2) The zone of unconsolidated material that extends landward from the LOW WATER LINE to the place where there is marked change in material or physiographic form, or to the line of permanent vegetation. The seaward limit of a BEACH – unless otherwise specified – is the MEAN LOW WATER LINE. A BEACH includes FORESHORE and BACKSHORE.
(3) (SMP) The zone of unconsolidated material that is moved by WAVES, wind and TIDAL CURRENTS, extending landward to the COASTLINE.
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The point representing the limit of high tide storm wave run-up.
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The carrying away of beach materials by wave action, tidal CURRENTS, LITTORAL CURRENTS or wind.
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The section of the BEACH normally exposed to the action of wave UPRUSH. The FORESHORE of the BEACH.
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The process of replenishing a BEACH by artificial means; e.g., by the deposition of dredged materials, also called beach replenishment or beach feeding.
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A cross-section taken perpendicular to a given beach contour; the profile may include the face of a dune or sea wall, extend over the BACKSHORE, across the foreshore, and seaward underwater into the nearshore zone.
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A low extensive ridge of beach material piled up by storm waves landward of the BERM. Usually consists of very coarse sand, GRAVEL or shells. Occurs singly or as a series of more or less parallel ridges.
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(1) An almost perpendicular slope along the beach FORESHORE; an erosional feature due to wave action, it may vary in height from a few centimeters to several meters, depending on wave action and the nature and composition of the BEACH. See ESCARPMENT. See ESCARPMENT.
(2) (SMP) A steep slope produced by wave erosion.
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The horizontal dimension of the BEACH measured normal to the shoreline.
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The relationship between sea state and wind speed. The Beaufort Scale can be used to estimate wind speed at sea, but is valid only for waves generated within the local weather system, and assumes that there has been sufficient time for a fully developed sea to have become established.
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The bottom of a watercourse, or any body of water.
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A surface parallel to the surface of deposition, which may or may not have a physical expression. The original attitude of a bedding plane should not be assumed to have been horizontal. See also CROSS-BEDDING, SEDIMENTARY STRUCTURES.
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Heavy or large sediment particles that travel near or on the BED.
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